![]() Here’s how it looks, just have the ATX power supply wires going through the power plug hole that used to be there, powered it up and it’s all working good. The quick way around this is to use 2 diodes to give it near 3.3V but since I had a 3.3V LDO I used that instead. So instead of trying to troubleshooting the power supply further I took the easy approach to use an ATX power supply to power the Xbox, most of the voltages match except for the 3.3V standby vs 5V standby that the ATX supply has. This sounds about right as a desktop power supply. Still the original XBox specs almost 40 LESS AC POWER using an internal power supply than the external brick on the 360. The 360 has more efficient chips but has more stuff attached (Kinect and 250GB hard drive for instance). I managed to find a larger 22 ohm resistor but when I switched it on this time nothing happened and no voltage on the outputs either. The XBox is a brute with a huge heat sink and power hungry innards. I quickly turned the power on and off, and saw a spark, the 22 ohm resistor was blown, oops. I replaced the 22 ohm resistor but only with a 1/4W one and replaced the 1N4007 diode too. I removed it from the circuit and it read open circuit, it looks to be 22 ohms. If you look more closely at the resistor you can see a slight mark which could mean it’s been damaged, I measured it in circuit and I was reading into the megaohms. Naturally the problem would have to be on the power supply board, at quick inspection found black marks around a diode and resistor. We have the original Xbox unit which is used infrequently and all of a sudden it wouldn’t power on, unplugged everything and measured no voltage on the outputs. ![]()
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